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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary honour.